My favorite food-related magazine is Saveur. I stop subscribing to it every few years, almost ritually, just as I did a few months ago, and then I run across some article I tore out of an old one before tossing it and the article is so extremely damn fine I wonder why on earth I ever failed to renew my subscription and wind up going to their web site and resubscribing — like I am just about to do — again.
The particular ripped out story that reminded me why Saveur is so worth the 20 bucks a year was written by Sandra Tsing Loh, Los Angeles author of Mother on Fire (Three Rivers Press, 2008), Pushcart Prize winner, pop-culture diva, pianist, on-again-off-again media darling and extremely damn fine writer.
It’s called “At Sea in the Valley,” and you can read it here, in Saveur.com’s archive to issue No. 127. It’s about a joint in Los Angeles called the Oyster House.